How this describes me is by the pictures. This pictures represent what I like and do. The two dogs on the top is the same dogs that I have. The Money is what I want but I have to work hard for it. Skating and working out is what I do. Working out is what I’m trying to get built. The car as you see is the car I want.
If you want to freeze the action in a photo, you’ll need to use to choose a faster shutter speed. On the other hand, you can also experiment with slowing down the shutter speed and panning your camera throughout the picture to create a sense of speed and movement. It takes a bit of practice to get right, but if you match the speed of your subject, you can hold them in focus while the directional blur emphasizes the sense of movement. Whenever possible, you will want to use a wide aperture, such as f/3.5 or lower. This will create a narrow depth-of-field, and helps the players to stand out, as the background distractions will be blurred.
Having the perfect settings, composition and timing won’t count for anything if you miss your focus. With the possibility for spectators, colourful advertisements, and other players in the background of your images, your camera’s focus might wander and lock onto the wrong target. For sports photography especially, you might want to consider using back button focus. With this method, your focus is controlled by a button on the back of your camera, which you can reach with your thumb. The shutter button doesn’t influence the focus at all.
Slow down your shutter speed, the reason for motion blur is simply that your camera’s shutter remains open for a significant period of time. In other words: you get motion blur when your shutter speed is long, whereas you freeze the action when your shutter speed is short. If your shutter speed is too fast (e.g., 1/4000s), you’re not going to capture much movement. But if you dial in a lengthy shutter speed (e.g., five seconds) you won’t need your subject to move much at all before you start to see blur.
The other factor that comes into play when determining shutter speed is how much light exists in the scene. A longer shutter speed lets more light into your camera and runs the risk of blowing out or overexposing your image. Below, we’ll cover some ways to let less light in (so you can use long shutter speeds without overexposure concerns).
JPEG: The better the photo quality, the less compression the camera will perform on the original photograph.
TIFF: TIFFs are uncompressed, they are much bigger files, and will take up a lot of space – both on your memory card and on your computer.
RAW: It also requires some basic knowledge of image-editing software such as Adobe Lightroom, because files will have to be edited and converted out of the RAW format before they can be used.
DNG (Digital Negative): Even cameras from the same manufacturer will often use different formats, which means image editing software must be able to read files from all of these different cameras.
PNG: PNGs are compressed in a lossless format, and therefore retain all detail. But unlike other file formats, PNG quality doesn’t mean big file sizes – and this is useful on the internet, because you need pages to load quickly.
GIF: The limitation of GIF files is that they can only contain a maximum of 256 colors. Therefore, GIFs are not the best choice for photos, but rather for images with a limited color palette.
BMP: BMPs are large files, as color data is saved in each individual pixel without any compression.
PSD: PSDs give far greater flexibility and the ability to fine-tune an image, because layers can be added, removed, or edited at any time without affecting the original photo.